Fractured Axel

Whilst sat here nursing flu (ironic as I had my flu jab 10 days ago) I have realised there are a couple of things i don't quite understand about my 2nd build - the B'Zar 2009 Ul - namely concerning the leech line and the wing-tip battens. I have studied photos on Werners website and on the excellent Sugarbaker build thread (admittedly a B'Zar 2011 build) over on the other forum but I am still confused.

The plan calls for 2mm fibreglass rod to be used. I do not have any but do have 3mm carbon rod. Is this a suitable alternative or should i stick to what the plan asks for? And are they actually needed? From looking at photos of the battens they look to me like they extend to 'inside' the leading edge (possibly also trailing edge) and not just butted up to the stitching on these two areas. Is this how anyone else has done the battens? Also when thinking through the stitching in of the battens it occurs to me that if they ever broke then it would require some unstitching of the area (dacron cover and part of the trailing edge?) to get at the batten. Is there a clever way to get around this?

For the leech line it recommends glueing/stitching the leech line at the wing tips and then pulling the excess (Sugarbaker suggests an amount equal to the distance from the spine base to the centre-T) out the bottom of the kite. However, unless i am missing it, it doesn't go on to explain what to then do with this excess, i.e tightening and securing it. Does this excess run up to the centre-T, around it and a knot put in to allow you to adjust the tension of the leech line.

Apologies if none of this makes sense, I can post pictues to explain better if needed. Cheers y'all.

I've not actually seen the B'zar plans, but I understand that the battens are usually there to help at the extreme low end of the wind range so if they're on the plan I would fit them. They usually specify fibreglass over carbon for things like battens and rollbars because if fibreglass rod breaks you just get a lot of fine fibre hairs whereas if carbon rod breaks you get loads of needle sharp shards ready to make a pin cushion of your sail! You can get 2mm g/f rod at RC model shops for a couple of quid a length.

Leechlines - I personally prefer them either fixed at the spine and adjustable at the nocks, or using a length of bungie looped above the centre T with the line fixed at the wingtips and the other end larksheaded around either end of the bungie like the HQ Infinity or FW Soul a simple and easily adjustable system.

i just found by myself, by playing with stand-off`s last time:
if 2mm only fiberglass they are stronger and more flexi.

but for 3mm carbon is good.

Thanks for the replies. 2mm glass fibre it is then - I have spent way too many hours with this sail to risk turning it from a UL to a vented for the sake of trying to save a few quid.

I spent hours yesterday trying to come up with a way of having the batten tunnel to be neatly positioned so that each end is behind the TE and LE whilst still allowing access to the batten if it ever broke (I am v. good at breaking things ). The best way I came up with is putting a small hole in the TE dacron to allow the batten to be pushed in/out. Still a pig to get at but better than nowt and looked the neatest. Maybe I am missing a simple trick to this???

As for the leech line connection the penny has now dropped thanks to the photo Steve. I have seen this before but never paid any attention to the finer details of it. Will give it a go this way and see which way i prefer for future builds.

I do have another general question though regarding connecting the leech line via the centre-t. If a sail was under great pressure would this potentially add stress to the centre-T in a downwards direction i.e the centre-t could be pulled down the spine if not fixed adequately? I am trying to understand the pro's and con's of each build method as one day in the distant future I plan to be real brave and maybe have a go at designing a sail plan for my sins.

honchoboy wrote:

I do have another general question though regarding connecting the leech line via the centre-t. If a sail was under great pressure would this potentially add stress to the centre-T in a downwards direction i.e the centre-t could be pulled down the spine if not fixed adequately? I am trying to understand the pro's and con's of each build method as one day in the distant future I plan to be real brave and maybe have a go at designing a sail plan for my sins.

Don't fix the leechline directly around the centre T, you need to larkshead a length of elastic shockcord ( bungie) above the centre T long enough so that both ends hang about 2/3 down to the tail. Now larkshead each end of the leechline to one end of the elastic - you'll have to play around with this to get the length/tension right. Now any extra pressure is taken by the elastic not the T.

Gotcha - thanks Steve. I always appreciate the pics you post. Hopefully we can meet up again in 2012 and you can take the kite for a spin around the block.

Sorted the battens out last night and am very happy with the results. Just got the LE to finish and make up the bridle then all done.

Oh, and Santa, please, please, please can i have carbon tube for xmas.