Fractured Axel

Heard everyone kept saying , wait for the nose to be high up before the 2nd input... but the higher the nose is the more it tend to wrap.. what am i doing wrong?? The second input should be a hard short tuck or a long smooth sweeping pull?? Should i give lots of slack on the offhand during the first input or just a little bit of slack?? Really gets frustrating as i kept wraping the line on the kite. I have watch the tutorial over and over again.. .trying to follow the way the input is but same result everytime. And if you ask me if i can do slot and 540... yes i can..fairly consistant... is it that i am curse to not able to do taz or Vortex by C.derefat can't do taz...

*Huge* amounts of slack, more than a 540, popping hand too. The 2nd input for me is a smooth pull rather than a pop but not too long.

If you're wrapping I'd guess you're not giving enough slack, if its flipping over possibly popping too hard.

TBH, this is a trick I can do, but far from reliably. Seems to be easier to do on ULs (the DS UL is far easier than the standard) or at the top end of the wind range on my Talon (possibly because I'm almost right at the window's edge)

Following use of the search facility here, and the advice does conflict a bit (probably because this is a very kite dependant trick and the inputs do vary from kite to kite).

Repeating them here partially because they may help on the Vortex and partly to promote further discussion.

Jason:
"A good way to increase the success rate of the taz machine on the DS is to make sure you give no input with the lower wing hand before the first pop. Hold that hand against your thigh if you need to. This then means that the tiny bit of slack given to the top wing before the pop would cause a stight downturn of the nose which is what a lot of other people are saying is the way to go.

The problems seem to come with the second pop which only seems to work if the wing you're popping is slightly towards you (like the 540 where it works best with an uneven flare) By doing the first pop like the above it seems to make it flare out more like you need it to be for the second pop to work. "

Audio Rob
"Flying left to right.
It helps if right before the trick you turn upwards very slightly
Small, sharp input with right hand quickly followed by the same input with the left hand. (JW - not on the DS)

Toss your left hand forward, and keep your right hand back. You should look like you're about to do a right hand dominant slot machine. Right hand will have tension on the light, left hand not.

STOP

WAIT

No, really.. WAIT.

Keep waiting.

The nose will flare up past 'belly flat'.

KEEP WAITING

The whole body of the kite will start to turn. The left wingtip (which is connected to your right hand) will be higher than the right wingtip.

Give a large, firm pull with the right hand and then give slack like the lines are on fire. (JW- firm pop on the DS)

Keep giving slack...

Step forward and give some more.

(if you skip this step, you'll likely do a taz machine.. but a very ugly one.)

Then pull back and fly away."

Hope this helps.

cojack_2107 wrote:

... or Vortex by C.derefat can't do taz...

Oh yes it can!

Hmm, I don't think old Audio Rob was right about turning up - I feel the kite should really turn slightly down into the first input. The nose should be pointing at 4 o'clock or 8 o'clock. Then it is just a matter of tweaking that first input until it just looks right to begin a flatspin. Learn to 540 from every which angle, even flying upwards (sounds odd I know, looks like an early-popped lazy), and you'll learn what that "looking right" is. The input to start the flatspin is short and fairly soft, followed by generous slack. It is late too, but not so late that you end up doing one of those odd lazy-susan-alikes. Tazes require the most precise timing and set-up, and mis-timing does not result is an "almost" taz, it results in nothing-like-a-taz.

Perhaps try flying across the window and doing to input to start a fractured axel. Then try over-doing that initial input until the kite has gone past an ideal flare, and the wing you would be about to pop for a taz-flatspin is higher. But don't over-do it as in do it aggressively, just make it longer, and give "too much" slack. Visualise the position the kite needs to be in before trying the trick, or the set-up.

Be patient, tazes are arguably the most difficult trick (maybe yofades are up there too), and you'll never get them into 100% success rate that is easily possible with say JLs or backspins. But when you get them, they are a lot prettier and more satisfying than those 100% tricks!

Thanks guys for the tips... had a go today.... was able to do one nice taz.. nail it good and i thought i got the momentum going on the vortex but there it goes again... same old same old... then i decided to make a few holes on the trailing edge. I like to share my experience on what i did to it so....

I found that with the outer standoff 5cm apart from the inner and the bridle 3point... JL is smoother, taz at a consistent rate and all other tricks just flows by smoothly, more floatier. Honestly i love the new settings more. Fade is more stable, more drive in lower wind conditions. 540 is flat! First time hitting a wap do wap successfully! not sure about comete though cause i still can't seem to get the rhythm going Anyone care to try it as well?? and see how it goes??